Surfing this weekend

Every weekend is for surfing in my life now. I went surfing with my brother and friends of his three days in a row. I just practiced paddling, dolphin through, as well as taking off, which was great time for me to improve.

Last Friday, the wave was chest-head tall, which was pretty big for me as a learner, but I tired to get to the offshore even though I was swallowed up by huge waves so many times and probably drank quarter liter of seawater..

The left bottom picture shows such a huge bagworm! It is about 3～4inches!

Waiting a nice one. The sea surface was not nice at all due to wind this morning.

Catch the wave! But I couldn't..lol

We ended up with another accident happened to me. When a wave pushed me and flipped me over, a fin of my surf board hit my forehead.... Fortunately, I didn't get a gash on my face. What the dangerous sport surfing is... One accident each time!

今週末もサーフィン三昧。金曜日の浜一の波は大きくて腹・胸、セット頭。けど頑張ってのまれてのまれて初めて沖に出れた！沖に出れたのはいいものの、頭くらいありそうなセットを何回か食らってるうちに力尽きて浜に戻ることに...「のまれる回数だけ上手くなる」の意味が少し分かったような気が....
今日は仙台の新浜へ。風のせいで海面がタップタップいってて、なかなか練習するのにいい波が来なかった。終わる際に、波にのまれて一回転してから、ボードのフィンがおでこを掠ってってちょー焦りまくり!! 顔に傷がつかなくて良かった～